Monday, September 2, 2013

Post 12: Travel Journal in India



August 16, 2013: Today, Tom, Emily, James and I toured Mumbai.

·      Mani Bhavan:
Our first stop was to Mani Bhavan, where Mahatma Gandhi once lived.  Mani Bhavan is a simple, two-story building, which is now a museum, library and research center depicting Gandhi's life and struggles for equality for all.

For me, the most memorable aspect of Mani Bhavan was James’ remarkable level of interest and engagement.   After walking around for a while and learning about Gandhi’s efforts with non-violent civil disobedience, James made the very appropriate parallel between Gandhi and Martin Luther King Jr.  He also commented that he learned a lot while at Mani Bhavan; some of the things he learned included: (1) that Gandhi spent 21 years working in South Africa before returning to India and beginning his work there (I actually didn’t know this either!); (2) Mahatma is a term of respect or revere and not Gandhi’s name; and (3) Gandhi was assassinated, bowed to his assassin, and was later cremated in Delhi where a memorial remains today. 

Mani Bhavan is not to be missed.





·      Terrorist Attacks

In 2008 in Mumbai, there were twelve coordinated shooting and bombing attacks across the city by members of a Pakistani-based militant organization.  The terrorists attacked at Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminal, The Oberoi, The Taj Mahal Palace, Leopold CafĂ©, Cama Hospital, and the Nariman House Jewish Community Center.

The terrorist attack happed immediately preceding my first trip to Shanti Bhavan, making it remarkable in my mind.

While in Mumbai, we got to see the Oberoi, Trident and the train station where the attacks occurred.  Even after all this time had elapsed, you could still see remnants of the damage inflicted.  Recalling the horrific attacks and seeing the aftermath of those attacks is just another reminder of how precious life is.






·      Mumbai’s Laundry

While Mumbai has become the financial center and Bollywood (aka Hollywood) of India, it has nevertheless retained several of the traditional practices, like the largest hand-laundry site in the world, the dabba wallas delivery service, and the historic fishing villages.

In Mumbai, more than 5,000 men and women work at one laundry facility where they wash and iron clothes by hand 14 hours a day, 7 days a week, earning barely enough to survive.  I have never seen anything of this scale and magnitude – it was incredible. 




Dabba Wallas:

While we did not go see the dabba wallas, our tour guide told us about them.  Everyday in Mumbai, some 5,000 deliverymen called dabba wallas hand deliver 200,000 hot meals to people across the city. It’s an intricate network that requires precise timing and numerous handoffs from courier-to-courier. The century-old service is a staple for the city's office workers and yet, the service still relies on an archaic system of symbols rather than written word to delineate food choice, as well as directions for the delivery.




·      Mumbai’s Fishing Village:

While sightseeing in Mumbai, we visited a traditional fishing village, which existed approximately 2000 years ago when Mumbai was just an archipelago of seven islands.  The fishing village exists untouched since then and is still inhabited by the same tribal fishing people, the Koli fisherman.  In the fishing village, life goes on in its traditional way with the men and women working together to catch, sort, dry and sell the fish.  As you walk down the narrow roads, the fragrance of the catch of the day emanates.  Women call out, offering prawns or other freshly caught fish.  Children run about, laughing and smiling. The energy is palpable.







Marine Drive:

Bordering the Arabian Sea, this famous road is a popular spot in Mumbai for watching sunsets or for simply hanging out.  Marine Drive is
full of people at all hours of the day; it is full of vacationers leisurely walking about, businessmen hustling to and fro, joggers running along the path, men and women sipping Masala Chai, and young lovers enjoying the fresh sea breeze.

And at night, Marine Drive comes alive with lights. 








·      Morimoto’s Wasabi

On our last night in India, we dined at Wasabi by Iron Chef Morimoto.  Our Indian waiter, named John, explained to us that the ingredients used in the restaurant, including seafood and the wasabi are specially flown down from Japan.  While grating fresh Wasabi for us tableside, he explained that authentic Wasabi is lighter green in color, less pasty, and made of horseradish that grows under water only in Japan; whereas, most of the wasabi you see in restaurants is made of a combination of wasabi paste and mustard.  He encouraged us to try both the authentic and imitation wasabi.  We definitely noted that the fresh wasabi was less pungent than the imitation wasabi we are accustomed to in most U.S. restaurants.




Our waiter also encouraged us to try some of the signature dishes, which we did.  These dishes included white fish carpaccio, salmon tacos, and black cod miso.

Aside from the delicious food, the other notable thing about this dining experience is the view, stretching seamlessly over the Gateway of India.  We were given the best table in the restaurant, which had a perfectly unobstructed view.  All-in-all, it was a lovely conclusion to a fabulous 2 weeks in India.




Final Thoughts:
This is a bit cheesy, but nevertheless true.

As I finish writing my travel journal from our adventures in India, the lyrics from Blake Shelton’s “God Gave me you” keep coming to mind.

The lyrics say, “On my own I'm only half of what I could be.  I can't do without you.  We are stitched together and what love has tethered, I pray we never undo.  ‘Cause God gave me you for the ups and downs.”

On my own, I have enjoyed India time and time again. However, on my own, “I’m only half of what I [can] be.”  This most recent trip to India, accompanied by Tom, Emily and James was all the more special because I was there, sharing the  “ups and downs” of traveling and a place I cherish with people I love.

Thank you again to Tom, Emily and James for sharing this with me.


Sunday, September 1, 2013

Post 11 - India Travel Journal


Memorable Moments in Mumbai

August 15, 2013:

While Mumbai was most analogous to NYC, Mumbai was nevertheless the hardest city for me by far.  Mumbai has long been famous for the cheek-by-jowl existence of some of the world’s richest and poorest people. In the decades since India’s independence, impoverished squatters have filled every unused nook and cranny of the city, creating some of the largest shantytowns in the world, including Dharavi, which was the slum featured in Slumdog Millionaire that we passed on our drive to our hotel. 







Yet, amidst the extreme poverty and filth, tremendous architectural structures rise up through the smoggy haze; some of which are private homes, some of which are luxury five-star hotels, and some of which are office buildings. For instance, we drove past the home of Mukesh Ambani, a business tycoon and the wealthiest man in India with an estimated net worth of $22.3 billion.  His home cost an estimated $1 billion to build. The 400,000-square foot home is 27 stories high, has three helipads, can garage 168 cars, and has a full-time staff of 600 persons.  Yet, it only houses 5 people: Ambani, his wife, and 3 kids.  Oh and occasionally, his mother stays as well.  Shantytowns surround their palatial home, just as shantytowns surrounded our hotel: The Four Seasons. 




At the Four Seasons, we were upgraded from our free room (booked on miles) to a suite.  The suite was spacious and absolutely gorgeous, but the view from our window was hard to stomach.  Below our beautiful room lie a sea of blue tarps, which comprised walls or parts of ceilings for corrugated metal structures with dirt floors, housing entire families within a matter of square feet.  This was truly a bird’s eye view to the squalor that lie below (from the air conditioned majesty of our suite)






We did all give special thanks for how fortunate we are.  

Friday, August 30, 2013

Post 10 - India Travel Journals


August 14, 2013:

·      Yoga
Tom enjoyed yoga in Udaipur so much that we decided to get up early and attend Coconut Lagoon’s yoga class.  Our teacher began the class by taking a few minutes to get to know each of us.

“What is your good name,” asked our instructor.

“Tom”

“And Tom, how long have you been practicing,” asked the yoga instructor. 

Tom held up ‘1 finger.’ 

Pleased, the instructor said, “one year – that is wonderful.” 

Tom quickly corrected him, “No.  One time.  Earlier on this vacation in fact.” 

“Oh,” he said disappointedly, “well, you should practice everyday,” our instructor advised pleadingly. 

He then explained that the style of yoga in Kerala was all about relaxation.  In this class, we worked on sun salutations (or Surya Namaskar) and tree pose.  Sun Salutations are a common series of flowing poses that are typically performed in the morning or at the beginning of a yoga class.  Our yoga teacher explained to us that the most important component of yoga is the breath.  He further elaborated that the transition from posture-to-posture is facilitated by inhalation or exhalation, and this is what is critical to your practice and not your level of flexibility. He encouraged us to slow down out movements, perform our movements smaller, and watch our breath closely.  He encouraged that same with tree pose, which requires a sense of rootedness and centering down through your core. 

Tom and I both agreed that this was an amazingly relaxing yoga class and a great way to start our day.




·      Boat Ride through the Back Waters
The part of Kerala we stayed in is called Kumarakom, which houses a renowned bird sanctuary that spreads across 14 acres, making it an ornithologists’ paradise.  Our boat driver – assumed that like most visitors to the area, we were bird-folk – thus, on our relaxing cruise through the backwaters, he pointed out every egret, heron, wild duck, and kingfisher we encountered.





Our driver was incredibly sweet; however, the birds were not the highlight of our backwater trip.  Rather from the boat, you have a front-row seat to the real-life stories of locals.  Huts and houses line the river along with rice fields. 

As you ride along the backwaters, you see women chatting while beating their laundry on stones; men scaling trees to retrieve ripe coconuts; people bathing in the river; fishermen pulling up their nets to examine the day’s catch; and goats, roosters and various animals wandering about.







And the absolute highlight came as our boat passed by an elementary school.  As we passed, several of the students (with their teacher’s permission) ran onto the front porch to wave and smile feverishly to us as we passed.  They were absolutely thrilled to see us there.  And for us, the sight of their beautiful, smiling faces was absolutely adorable. 

To further explore local life, we took an afternoon stroll through the local village.  Kerala is truly amazing and has been coined “God’s own country” for a reason.  But as far as I am concerned, Kerala’s true beauty is found in its villages and in its people.


The people in Kerala live humble, serene lives.  They emanate warmth.

The people live off the water and off the land.  Each small home has waterfront property with three or four steps leading into the water.  The people bathed in the water, did their dishes in the water and even did their laundry there.  Everywhere we walked, the people looked at us, nodded and smiled.  Everyone made us feel welcome, safe and appreciated.









Our initial apprehension about our time in Kerala proved to be the furthest thing from the reality of our experiences there.  Tom, Emily, James and I all absolutely loved Kerala and were sad to have to leave.

Other Memorable Moments in Kerala:

Emily and I decided to get henna while in Kerala.

Practiced mainly in India, mehendi, also known as henna, is the application of a temporary form of tattoo.  Henna paste is applied to the skin using a plastic cone.  After about an hour, the henna paste will dry and begin to crack.  When the henna paste is removed, the henna design is pale to dark orange in color;  this color gradually darkens through oxidation, over the course of 24 to 72 hours. The final color is reddish brown and can last anywhere from 1-3 weeks depending on the quality and type of henna paste applied, as well as where it was applied on the body (thicker skin stains darker and longer than thin skin).








Tom, Emily and James also spent many memorable hours in the pool, while I made frequent treks to the Butterfly Sanctuary in hopes of getting some photos for GG!