Part 4: Travel Journal from our time in India

Memorable Moments in Jaipur

August 8, 2013:

·       Rambagh Palace

Rambagh Palace is a legend in Jaipur. Built in 1835 on a modest scale for the queen’s favorite handmaiden, and later refurbished as a royal guesthouse and hunting lodge, the mansion was renamed Rambagh, after the reigning Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh II.  In 1947, when India declared her independence, the various states, including Jaipur, were merged to create the Union of India. Rambagh Palace remained the home of Jaipur’s royal family until 1957, when it was first converted into an upscale hotel that the royal family continued to manage. In 1972, the Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces took over the Palace from the royal family.

Upon arrival, at Rambagh, we were greeted with a royal family welcome, replete with a showering of rose petals, a large Sikh man carrying an ornate parasol to protect us from the sun, a cameraman who shot various photos of us as we entered the hotel, ice cold, freshly squeezed juice thrust into our hands.  The service throughout our stay at the Palace did not disappoint.  We were upgraded to suites – that were unlike anything I had ever seen in my life.  Our maid drew rose petal baths for Emily and I.  The staff even presented us with gifts as we left.  They gave us coaster sets that were identical to the coaster sets in our room; they said this would allow us to bring a piece of the Palace home with us and keep the experience fresh in our hearts.  Moreover, the lady who welcomed us to the Palace made an album for James.  The album included photos of our family taken throughout our stay at the Palace.   “Keep it with you forever,” she encouraged James. 

We also ate in the royal family’s dining room, which was replete with Italian paintings, Murano glass chandeliers, lamps shaped like Polo trophies, gold cutlery, plates and glasses.    Staying in Rambagh Palace was very much like living in a real life fairy tale.

·       Ghoomar Dance

Ghoomar Dance is the traditional folk dance of Rajasthan.  Only women perform Ghoomar.  The women pirouette round and round, rhythmically and gracefully.  They wear brightly colored long skirts, peppered with mirror-work and rhinestones, which makes their lively spinning absolutely riveting to watch.   Men join in by singing folksongs and playing instruments.  On our first night at Rambagh Palace, we had the opportunity to watch Ghoomar dancing performed in the Palace courtyard.  It was an experience that we all enjoyed.

August 9, 2013: Today, we explored Jaipur, or the Pink City.  In 1876, Maharaja Ram Singh painted the entire city pink, traditionally a color associated with hospitality, to welcome the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) to the city. The tradition has been maintained and today, all of the residents in the old city are compelled by law to preserve the pink color.  Hence, Jaipur’s sobriquet as the Pink City.

·       Snake Charmers

While in India, James desperately wanted to see a snake charmer, Bengal tigers, and the infamous, man-eating goonch.  Well, one out of three ain’t too shabby. 

While driving in Jaipur, we saw a snake charmer on the side of the road.  The snake charmer encouraged us to come closer, and even to pet the cobra, which he claimed was defanged.   Or so we hope!

·       City Palace and Amber Fort

Located in the heart of the Pink City Jaipur, the City Palace was where the Maharaja reigned. Sawai Jai Singh II built the palace between 1729 and 1732 AD. The huge complex consists of courtyards, gardens, and buildings that blend both Rajasthani and Mughal architecture. The Peacock Gate is exquisite, and contains an alluring display of detailed workmanship featuring bright peacocks (see our family pic in front of the peacock gate). Today, the royal family lives in the Moon Palace bordering the courtyard.

Like City Palace, the Amber Fort is a fascinating blend of Hindu and Mughal architecture. Constructed by Raja Man Singh I in 1592 and completed by Mirja Raja Jai Singh, the fort was made completely in red sand stone and white marble. The rugged forbidding, hilltop, walled exterior belies an inner paradise of art and architecture.

We arrived at the fort, and our tour guide Singh, escorted us to a large queue for an elephant ride to the top of the fort.  He warned us not to engage with the vendors because if we did, they would see us as easy targets and would harass us continually until we purchased an endless array of shoddy souvenirs.   But clearly not everyone in the queue line had the luxury of our Guides’ advice.  As one Spanish woman – who was very provocatively dressed by Indian standards – was descended upon by the hoards of postcard, bangle, elephant trinket, and parasol sellers after she mistakenly made eye contact with a bauble salesman.  Before we boarded our elephants, the poor Hispanic woman managed to purchase everything from a parasol to an imitation Maharaja turban.   

We giggled about the poor woman’s plight with two young Indian girls from Philly and their father who were immediately ahead of us online.   The girls were absolutely lovely.  The older daughter was studying neuroscience in college; and the younger daughter, Priya, was a musical theater performer in high school.  We immediately hit it off, and Priya even went so far as to send Emily a facebook friend request while we waited in line.  We subsequently took pictures of them on their elephant, which we promised to post – and vice versa.