Monday, August 26, 2013

Part 5 - India trip journal


Rajasthan Continued…

·       Jantar Mantar
Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh built one of the five observatories in India, Jantar Mantar in the early Eighteenth Century. The Maharaja was passionate about astronomy and numerology created a collection of complex astronomical instruments chiseled out of stone, most of which continue to provide accurate information to this day. The most striking instrument is the sundial, which we leaned from Singh is the biggest sundial in the world.






While exploring Jantar Mantar, one recurring thought came to mind.  Kevin Calabro would love this place.  Too bad Kevin Calabro wasn’t here to help us thoroughly enjoy this site.  Rather Jantar Mantar, was not the highlight of our trip – although we did all enjoy taking silly photographs in front of our zodiac signs.







·       Teej Festival
This festival is dedicated to the Goddess Parvati, commemorating her union with Lord Shiva.  An idol of the Goddess Teej (incarnation of Goddess Parvati) is decorated by the royal families of Jaipur for the parade. A convoy of beautifully adorned elephants, horses and camels parade before Goddess Teej's palanquin made of gold and silver. Various traditional dances are performed to folk songs throughout the parade.






·       Teej Festival Rooftop Viewing:

In the U.S., where safety is of utmost concern and where lawsuits for tort liability abound, we adhere to very strict health and safety guidelines.  But this is not the case in India.  For example, in the U.S., you would never see an infant on the road without a proper car seat.  However, in India, entire families including their infants ride on mopeds – and generally, no one bothers to wear a helmet or a safety belt. 





Moreover, parents (and even grandparents) in the U.S. put safety locks on drawers, padlock pool gates, and don’t let their eldest daughter ride her bike past the mailbox on their dead end block, parental rules in India differ.

Similarly, in the U.S., there are stringent standards governing conduction and transmission of electricity.  In India, standards certainly differ as live wires droop and bow perilously above or rest across the roof where the kids are at play.



It is just part of life in India.  And while in India, you need to take a deep breath and embrace the differences, while at the same time, ensuring your own health, safety and well being.

Following Singh’s lead, we pushed, prodded and elbowed our way through hoards of people on the streets, a flock of men urinating at an outdoor toilet, and various back alleyways of Jaipur to a dimly lit, stone staircase.  I held tightly to the back of James’ shirt so that we would not get separated in the mob scene on the streets.  Tom glanced anxiously back at me, imploring with his eyes ‘did I think we were safe and that following Singh was ok?’  I nodded and in near darkness, we began scaling the unevenly balanced steps, making our way towards the building’s roof where we would join Jaipur locals to enjoy the Teej Festival.

After climbing several flights of stairs, we emerged into the light as we stepped out onto the unevenly stuccoed rooftop.  The roof was full of local families.  Young children, Christopher and Kenzie’s age running about and sitting precariously on the roof’s un-railed edge.  Women squatted and knelt at roof’s edge to get a birds eye view of the procession below.  Men chatted on their cell phones.  It was an experience like no other.  We were definitely a bit nervous but quickly settled in as we began interacting with the Jaipur locals.







·       Our first encounter on the roof was with Indian TJ:


“Where are you from,” asked a bright-eyed, articulate young Indian boy of about 12 years old.

“U.S.A.,” I answered. 

“Oh,” he said.  “I know something about the U.S.A. and I wonder if you know too.  Who is the President of the U.S.,” he asked clearly doubting my sheer, Hermione-like nerdiness.

I smiled, and said, “I think I got this one.”  You could still see the doubt in his eyes.  “Obama,” I said assuredly.  Indian TJ was taken aback.  After several moments of silence, he returned to the conversation. 

“My uncle has a store in the U.S.A.,” said Indian TJ. 

“Do you know what state your uncle’s store is in,” I asked curiously.

“London,” he said matter-of-factly!

We all giggled, including Singh.

Indian TJ and his family were absolutely lovely as were all of the families we encountered on the roof’s edge.  Almost everyone on the roof attempted to engage us in conversation regardless of his or her English-speaking abilities and comfort with the language. 

A young mother motioned to Emily and I to please join them in the front row so that we could have the best view of the procession.  We tried to graciously decline, but she insisted.  As I squeezed in and knelt down next to her, she looked directly in my eyes and asked, “just 2 children?”

Rather that trying to explain that Tom was divorced and I was not the mother of his children, and that there was a third child at home, I simply nodded.

“I have 2 kids too,” she said. “Boys.”  She motioned to the young child in her arms and another adorable little boy standing nearby.  We continued our simple, yet lovely conversation replete with charades and lots of smiles.  One thing was clear: this young mother, and all of the women around her, desperately wanted to insure that Emily and I had a great time and a near perfect view of all the activities below.  “It’s coming.  It’s coming,” shouted another woman, pointing frantically and encouraging us to look.








The Teej Festival represents one of those spiritual moments for me in India – where I find myself half-joking, but half seriously, stating, “I am pretty sure I was Indian in a past life because I feel so comfortable and at home here.”  While I may not actually be ‘brown deep-down’, it’s hard to explain but at the Teej Festival, I felt totally connected, embraced, and accepted in spite of language barriers and inherent differences.  It’s a wonderful feeling and its just one of the things I love about India.






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