Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Part 6 - travel journal


Memorable Moments in Udaipur

August 10, 2013:

·       The Drive to Udaipur:
We were fortunate to have the same driver with us from Delhi all the way through Udaipur.  Our driver’s name was Mr. Singh.  While Mr. Singh did not speak much English, it was clear that he was a friendly, warm man and rather competent behind the wheel, which is of utmost necessity in India.

Typical Indian roads are thick with bicycles, oxen and carts, dinky rickshaws, cows, stray dogs, and elaborately decorated trucks hauling everything from piles of hay to people. The traffic whizzes by while pedestrians calmly stroll among the chaos often carrying enormous bundles on their heads.  At each traffic light, families of beggars will twist and weave their way around the cars to knock on your vehicle’s windows with displays of open wounds, damaged limbs, and starving babies –their hollow eyes imploring you for a few life-saving rupees.  It is incredibly heart wrenching to see.  But it’s not just what you see on the roads that is a shock to one’s senses; it is also what you hear.





The sound of Indian roads is also something to behold.  The noise is deafening as an unnerving cacophony of horns penetrates the air.  Some horns simply beep loudly, while others seem to play perky tunes.  Some trucks even implore other drivers to sound their horn with signs stating, “Sound horn please”.  Moreover, it appears that a ‘good’ Indian driver honks his horn while attempting any risky maneuver on the road.  However, as it turns out, when driving in India, almost every maneuver is risky – so there is a constant raucous blaring of horns from all sides.




That said, the most frightening aspect of Indian roads are not the fast and congested traffic or the unending hymn of horns, but rather the image of the random vehicle traveling head-on in the opposite direction.  This is especially common in a small towns or rural villages where roads tend to be too narrow for two lanes of traffic. Therefore, traffic coming in the other direction will have to travel on the same path as you. That’s right, traffic, including large trucks travel head-on at high speeds.  After spending several hours in a vehicle on the Indian roads, you definitely need a drink to calm down your nerves!

·       Government issued rest stops:
The day before, we learned from Singh (our tour guide in Jaipur) that India’s constantly shifting map is of no accident.  Nation-building can be a messy process (as we know from our own turbulent history in the U.S.).  In fact, politicians, activists and militants are still grappling with a score of unsettled issues left by India’s transition from the British Raj to an Indian. 

Prior to its independence, India was divided into hundreds of distinct geographic areas, complete with their own unique ethnicities, religious sects and linguistics preferences.  One such area was the princely state of Kashmir, which lies on the border of India and Pakistan.  Lying as it does on the border, Kashmir was claimed by both Pakistan and India, which continues to fuel conflict between the two countries today as both sides war over this region.

As you travel throughout the country, you will discover that unlike the Kashmiri region, most of India’s separate states have managed to function quite well as a uniform country.  However, rules still exist when you cross from one of the former states into another.  For example, while driving in a registered taxi or tourist vehicle, the driver must stop at a government controlled and monitored rest stop to pay taxes when entering a new state. 

The rest stops are interesting.  We got to make several different stops.  At each stop, our driver Mr. Singh would disappear for about 20 minutes – we assume to drink a glass of chai, eat some lunch, and pay the requisite travel fees.  However, we do not know this for certain.  All that we do know, is that at each rest stop, we were  “expected” to entertain ourselves.  Entertainment came in the form of paying to use icky, public toilets,  purchasing cheesy souvenirs,  and ordering shady, potentially illness-causing food from the local vendors.  And honestly, there was really no way around participation in the ‘entertainment’ offerings because at each stop, we were under the looming and curious eyes of myriad sales persons and an armed police officer.  Ah, good times….




·       Car Games
Given that we had several lengthy and unsettling drives, we invented car games to keep us busy.  The most memorable of which were: “Guess what Mr. Singh is saying” (a game inspired by James as we could never really understand what Mr. Singh was trying to tell us) and a second game referred to as “ABC”.

In India, you see a lot of things you do not necessarily want to see.  For instance, the world is truly a man’s urinal in India.  Men pee everywhere.  And I mean everywhere.  Moreover, people bathe whenever and wherever it is convenient.  In the U.S., we are not sued to such public displays – thus, we decided to create a game to kill time: (1) 1 point for everyman peeing, recognized by saying the letter “A”; (2) 3 points for every bather, acknowledged by stating the letter “B”; and (3) (sorry this one’s gross) but 5 points for anyone seen crapping, by stating “C”.  Thankfully, while we saw many, many, many  A’s & B’s, we never saw a “C”.  And quite frankly, in all of my travels in India, I have never seen a “C”.   

It should be noted that while we never saw a “C” in India,  Tom saw a “C” on 14th street the day we returned to NYC.  Ah, home sweet home….





Udaipur Taj Lake Palace:

We pulled up to the dock and boarded the boat to the hotel.   Upon arrival, we were greeted with a shower of rose petals, a tilak, and a drink.



Tilak is the ritual, red mark that is placed on the forehead. It can be used as a blessing, a greeting or auspiciousness. The tilak is applied on the spot between the brows, which is considered the seat of latent wisdom and mental concentration, and is very important for worship.   Tom, Emily, James and I all received a Tilak from the hotel staff as an offering of good health and prosperity.






Emily and James were given chocolate milkshakes and Tom and I were given the Taj’s signature alcoholic drink.  After we enjoyed our beverages, we were escorted to our rooms, which were just past the courtyard flautist.

**This fact with appeal to Paul Calabro -- the palace’s decadent reputation was cemented when the James Bond film Octopussy was filmed on the premises. Taj Lake Palace was the secluded lair of the film’s eponymous Bond girl.

·       Bhavai Dance
The most thrilling traditional dance performance we witnessed on our trip was in Udaipur. Bhavai dance is performed by a single dancer. Historically bhavai dance originates from the desert area of Rajasthan where women often needed to walk miles from their home to get water from wells. To gather and transport the water, the women carried large water vessels on their head.  The dance mimics this tradition as the performer balances a large vessel atop her head while she gracefully spins and moves about the dance floor.  The most thrilling part of the dance is when the dancer places her feet precariously on the edge of drinking glasses with the vessel still atop her head.  Even more incredibly than simply balancing atop the glasses, the performer continued to move and turn.







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